Mark Twain, in The Tramp Abroad, described Heidelberg this way, “One thinks Heidelberg by day- with its surroundings- is the last possibility of the beautiful; but when he sees Heidelberg by night, a fallen Milky Way, with that glittering railway constellation pinned to the border, he requires time to consider upon the verdict.” I spent thirty-one of the best months of my life living near Heidelberg, Germany. I was a member of the U.S. Army, stationed at Tompkins Barracks, Schwetzingen, from October 1975 until May 1978. I met and married my wife in Schwetzingen. Our son was born in Heidelberg.
I spent a lot time in Heidelberg, but it seemed that there was always something new to discover. It didn't hurt that Heidelberg is one of the most picturesque cities in the world and around every turn is a photo worthy of a postcard.
Unless it is just one more stop on a guided tour of Europe, most Americans travel to Heidelberg via the Frankfurt Airport, a distance of approximately 50 miles. The easiest way to get to Heidelberg from Frankfurt is by train. The train leaves from the airport and there is direct service to Heidelberg.
Public transportation is the best way to get around Heidelberg and to visit neighboring cities and towns. There is no reason to rent a car. Germany, like most of Europe, has a web of public transportation that includes trains, streetcars, and buses. The entire transportation system is punctual and service is dependable. I learned very fast how to use public transportation and, at the time, I had never been on a plane before, much less left the country. Most Germans know at least a little English and most of them will help the confused tourist. The worst mistake that I made during the learning curve was failing to understand that many trains just whiz on by certain smaller cities without stopping; express trains connect major cities and don't always stop in smaller ones. I made this mistake the first time I took my future wife on a train (or anywhere else). She thought it was funny. I was counting my coins wandering if I had enough to get us back.
The main attraction in Heidelberg is the castle (Heidelberger Schloss) overlooking the Neckar River. The earliest records of the castle's construction date back to 1214 A.D. The castle is largely in ruins today, but that only adds to it's majesty. A visit to the castle never leaves the memory. It is certainly one of the more memorable landmarks that I have visited.
Castle construction took place over a period of centuries and as architectural styles changed, the castle's appearance changed along with them. That, along with the numerous wars and fires, has left it with an "unbalanced" appearance.
Nominal fees are charged for some sections within the castle, but the castle grounds is really what is worth visiting - and it is free. One thing that some visitors might appreciate enough to pay a few coins is the wine barrel inside the castle that is said to be the largest wooden barrel in the world that once held wine.
The Old Bridge (Alte Brucke) sets very close to the castle and crosses the Neckar River. It was built from 1786 to 1788 with red sandstone. Johann von Goethe in a diary entry dated August 26, 1797: "This bridge is as beautiful as no other bridge all over the world."
Capturing the bridge and the castle in the same photograph is very easy. Most visitors come home with dozens of those photos.
The Church of the Holy Spirit dates back to 1239. It is permissible to walk inside the church. A walk up the winding stairs to the top of the steeple will have most people breathing pretty hard, but those who make it all the way will be rewarded with spectacular views of Old Town, the river, and the castle.
Old Town (Altstadt) is home to shops, museums, theatres, restaurants, pubs, and parks. One could easily spend an entire day strolling through Old Town. Walking is the best way to see it, but streetcars do run the entire route.
Riverboats cruise the Neckar River during warm weather months. A riverboat cruise is relaxing and interesting, especially if one likes old castles. Castles dot the riverbank. Neckarsteinach, ten miles down the Neckar River from Heidelberg, is home to four castles.
Heidelberg also has a small, but nice zoo. The zoo is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon, especially with children.
In the summer, fireworks are launched from the Old Bridge over the Neckar River on three nights - the first Saturday in June, the second Saturday in July, and the first Saturday in September. These are really big events, so the city is packed with visitors during those weekends. The river comes alive with excitement well before dark. The fireworks commemorate the burning of the castle in the years 1689, 1693 and 1764 (or that's what they say).
There are many historic towns and cities that one can visit within an hour of Heidelberg. Schwetzingen, Speyer, and Mannheim are well worth visiting.
Our family last visited Heidelberg in March - April 1992. We had two kids by then, ages five and fourteen, and they both enjoyed the trip.
I'm certain that we will see Heidelberg again one day. Until then, I have my memories.
