Valentine's Day in Japan

Valentine's Day (called barentain de- in Japanese) has been adopted in Japan, but heavily modified.

First of all, forget the flowers and the romantic gestures. In Japan, it's only about chocolate. Show up with a bunch of flowers, and you'll get a puzzled reception: "Flowers? On Valentine's Day? Huh?" You might as well be bringing a squid.

Second, and most important, it's strictly one way - from female to male. Females present males with chocolate. That's it. Males do not give females anything, though they might pay for the fashion hotel (more about that later).

Here is where it gets really strange. When I said "female to male," I meant precisely that: ANY female is supposed to give ANY male chocolate. Yes, I know, I know, it's weird and it's strange. But that's the way it is in Japan. If you are a female, then come February 14th you have to present your father, your brothers, your office colleagues, your boss, and any other male in sight with a little pack of chocolates.

Needless to say, you do not have to be romantically involved with any of these people. The only determining factor is gender.

I pity the young women who work in the offices of large companies, who to this day tend to be occupied mostly with answering the phone, pouring tea and operating the photocopier. Every Feburary they are forced to shell out massive amounts of cash on innumerable packets of chocolate, which they have to lug to work in a rucksack, and then distribute throughout the company.

Needless to say, competition amongst office workers is fierce, so any female office worker who wants to endear herself to her boss or garner the support of the office staff will stay up all night baking her own home-made chocolates.

The term for the chocolates thus received at the office is girichoko, which means "obligatory chocolate."

Many middle-aged and elderly men, who as executives at bluechip companies will receive the most numerous and lavish chocolates, will find themselves at a loss, since they tend to detest chocolate and other Western food, much preferring a squid. Many will scratch their heads and reluctantly haul a large basket full of assorted chocolates home, then surreptitiously feed it to their dog.

Now, you may think that Japan is a terribly sexist place if men only receive and women are forced to give. Not so! The confectionary industry has come up with something called White Day, when roles are reversed and the males go purchase candy, and distribute it amongst the females in their vicinity. White Day, called howaito de- in Japanese, falls on March 14, and is marked by store displays of white and sky blue.

Weirdly, the romantic aspect somehow survives underneath this public social rite. Confessions of love may take the form of a hand-made packet of chocolate left on the desk of one's crush. And the fashion hotels (also known as love hotels, the equivalent of motels in the West) will be packed, with queues of sheepish couples forming outside. If you're unattached and in Japan, Valentine's Day is the one day of the year you will be glad not to have a girlfriend.